Category Archives: Weeds

Why weeds matter

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By definition, a weed is any plant that crowds out cultivated plants.  In nature, plants will only crowd out other plants when the environment is altered and one plant is deprived of some nutrient or gained by another.  While we tend to think of forests as stationary ecosystems, they’re always moving.  As we see in succession, when one layer of pioneer plants has amassed enough biomass to sustain a perennial herb layer, the grasses move in and “crowd out” the pioneers.  As more biomass is generated at the top-soil layer by the bundled root-systems of the perennial grasses, the shrub layer encroaches followed by the shorter, then taller trees.  With each step, we see a more complex ecosystem unfolding until the web of biodiversity is strong enough to sustain minor alterations.  

“Weeds” or those plants we have labeled weeds, contribute to biomass, cultivation, offer a food source for beneficial insects and play a part in the development of the ecosystem.  And in many cases, those plants we’ve labeled “weeds” are far more beneficial than the plants we’ve cultivated.  Dandelions, for example, are completely edible, hold nutrients from the soil and redistribute these nutrients at the end of the life-cycle, are insectary, and offer humans some medicinal value.  Grass, on the other hand, prevents erosion and provides biomass, but otherwise, isn’t very useful to humans, doesn’t attract beneficial insects and takes in more nutrients than it contributes.

Healing Tree: the website

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I’ve been brainstorming ideas to make this blog more effective and I’ve decided to build a website around topics discussed on the blog while maintaining the blog as a central forum for discussion and ideas.  The website will offer resources to folks new to permaculture and also those more familiar with the “do no harm” approach to farming, including helpful links and articles written by me and those more familiar with the process.  

Since we’re landless, we’ll be propagating a new kind of garden – with vital seeds of change – online!

How to Build a Fruit-centered Guild (Pt2)

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Once you have built a healthy layer of topsoil, wait a while (like months) while the materials break down and the heat isn’t so intense as to devour the roots of early-plantings.  Guild-building is a long project for forward-thinkers.  It can be frustrating in that folks who visit our backyard experiment often give us perplexed looks, seeing mostly circular raised beds dotting the landscape.  “Give it a year,” I tell them.

We began our guilds in June, but this week we will begin planting bulbs for spring.  The bulbs sit higher in the soil and won’t be heavily impacted by the heat rising up from the composting manure.  [If you've never stuck your hand in composting manure, (and you probably haven't) it's HOT.   When sifting through manure to remove larger rocks, the rocks would surprise us with their heat.  I dropped one it was so warm.  Like a hot potato (covered in poo).]

I digress…   The bulbs are nice because they’ll give you something to enjoy next spring.  Beautiful large blooms to squelch any unwarranted criticism from family and friends.  AND they double as grass-suppressors, hopefully they’re edible or maybe they deter ground-rodents and deer.  The other important element of a  fruit-centered guild is that whatever you choose to plant, the roots and functions must be considered carefully.

The roots of a fruit tree extend out one and a half times the diameter of the tree.  If you are planting an apple tree, consider the size of the tree once it reaches maturity and adjust your guild-size accordingly (you can always add on later, if necessary).  As mentioned earlier, what to plant within your guild depends a lot on the roots and functions of the plants you wish to include within your guild.  There are many kinds of bulbs available, but which bulbs offer the most functionality within the guild?  Consider:

  • which insects/animals these plants attract or deter
  • whether or not any part of the plant is edible
  • the plant’s vigor and whether or not it will spread
  • pH  requirements
  • the type of root system and where it falls relative to the fruit tree
  • when the plant takes in the most nutrients/water
  • how and where the plant stores nutrients
  • yields and value to humans, medicinal value, environmental impact/value

A dandelion, for example offers a deep taproot that won’t “compete” for nutrients from the tree; it breaks open and oxygenates the soil; it has edible and medicinal roots and leaves and it absorbs a higher level of CO2.  Comfrey also has a deep taproot, enormous medicinal value, and stores a high concentration of nutrients in its leaves, so it can be mulched in place and makes a terrific fertilizer.  Daffodils are grass-suppressors (they keep the grass roots away from our beloved tree roots); they take in the majority of nutrients in the spring (before the tree); and they deter deer and rodents, but attract beneficial insects to our guilds.

These are just some examples.  We’ll talk more about the specific plantings later in our third installment.  For now, start thinking about roots and plant functions.  Think about the sort of things you would like to grow and research their various functions.  Also consider nearby trees.  Some trees, like the black walnut, are allopathic to neighboring trees and will deter healthy growth.

Keep in mind, I’m not an expert in permaculture, I’m a student.  There’s a lot to learn and as the old adage goes, if you’re not killing some of your plants, you’re probably not learning anything new.

In healing we may teach others and in teaching, we may heal.   

How to Build a Fruit-centered Guild (Pt1)

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To build a guild think soil, roots, and results.  A mature ecosystem has a rich layer of biomass that has accumulated over many, many years.  In order to replicate, create your own layer of rich topsoil using a good combination of nitrogen and carbon rich materials.  Hay, fresh manure, and grass clippings work well for the nitrogen layers and straw, newspaper or carboard, and compost work well for the carbon layer.

Start by cutting the grass.  Leave the clippings to mulch in place and cover these with a thin layer of newsprint.  Atop the newsprint, pile four inches of fresh(ish) manure.  I pile the hay (not straw) directly over the manure in another thick eight-inch to a foot layer and then cover these with a thicker-than-before layer of newsprint.  Straw works well over the top to seal in moisture.  The creates a weed barrier and holds in moisture and allows time for your grass-suppressing bulbs to get rooted before the paper biodegrades.

Next… How to plant a guild…

14 down, one to go!

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We completed Guild No. 14 last night and have only one more to build before beginning the process of what I call “closing the guilds,” or covering them in preparation of fall/spring plantings.

For the first time this year, I mowed. This makes it easier to navigate and water the guilds, but more importantly, it creates mulch for the spaces between. I’ve preserved the natural habitat in the back for the birds and will be creating (with one final load of manure) herb/grass beds to diversify habitat for a broader variety of birds, insects, beneficial fungi and microbes.

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Above: Mounds of hay rise up from the grass. Each mound contains a layer of mulch, newsprint, two inches of rich manure, and about eight inches of hay.

Below: A morning glory climbs a red maple. Legumes are natural nitrogen fixers and trees makes nice trellises (note the clover growing nearby).

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At the root

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I thought it might be wise to discuss succession and what that means to building guilds and creating mature eco systems. When you consider mature forests rarely have serious “pest” problems, despite the wide availability of edibles, we need to ask ourselves what it is that prevents pests from invading?

At the root of this concept is the root itself. I’ve taken photos of two roots. The first photo is of an opportunistic or pioneer plant, one that moves in when the soil has been badly disturbed by earth movers or herbicides. And the other is the root system of established perennial grass.

I used a key word in the above paragraph: moves. Forests, meadowland, shrub layers, it’s all moving, filling in and maturing when possible. Bare ground will nearly always be covered. If the bare earth has been disturbed and little exists of the rich humus in the top six inches of soil (topsoil), it is the perfect place for the opportunists to fill the void.

These first plants, which we often label invasive or weeds serve an important purpose. Notice the root structure of the first plant (the opportunist) and contrast that with the perennial.

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Plants that move into a disturbed soil layer, must have roots that can penetrate deep into the earth for water and miscellaneous nutrients. Some call these “miners” for their deep taproots and because some of the pioneer plants like chicory or comfrey really do mine for water and nutrients, bringing them and holding them in the plant. Some are more like scavengers, but even the scavengers serve a purpose.

Those deep taproots penetrate deep into the earth, oxygenating the soil and after a season, when the plant dies, the roots decay and create a layer of humus. As this cycle continues, the humus or biomass grows and before long, enough fertility has returned that the perennial herbs and grasses move in.

Notice the thin roots on the perennial (below) and how the majority of the roots are clustered nearest the green. As this plant lives and dies, it creates an even richer layer of organic matter in the top six inches of soil. This continues into the shrub layer (the sumac, berries, roses, etc) and finally into the forest layer.

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In creating an edible forest garden, we must generate healthy topsoil; bringing in rich organic matter, but also planting miners and dynamic accumulators, and nitrogen fixers like clover to speed things up a bit. A forest survives because it is enormously diverse. We want to recreate a mature eco system rich in biodiversity and organic matter so that it might survive on its own, with little to no intervention from humans. You’ll never look at a dandelion (dynamic accumulator, miner, edible, medicinal, nectary), the same way again.

Dandelions and CO2, Farming

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NPR reported this morning on the increase in dandelions (and other weeds) and rising CO2 levels. With more CO2 in the atmosphere, dandelions are “bolting,” or producing seeds earlier than normal and growing larger, stronger. For those never-ending green lawns, this could be problematic, but for the edible forest, it just signals a response to our environment, larger and deeper roots to open and aerate the soil and a larger, prettier bloom in the summer.

If we want to solve the problem of rising CO2 levels, we need to think differently about what we call “weeds” and begin to appreciate the response from nature to the largest of invasives, or opportunists: the human race.

In other news, we’re picking up a load of black dirt tonight and an additional load of hay for the guilds. We’ve finished two in as many days and plan to finish the girl’s guild this morning. As of later today, we should have five near-complete guilds with five or six to go (unless we receive additional funding and then we’ll tack on an additional three guilds).

Farmers have been wonderful in contributing time, advice, resources, etc. Northstar Organics (organic cherry growers out of Frankfort, MI) offered the use of their dump-truck to pick up the black dirt donated by T/N Farm. And Sandy Rennie made some recommendations on sweets and sour cherries. We are grateful and humbled by the enormous amount of support this project has received already. Thank-you!

Meadows and the hedgerow

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 We’re always learning something new from the land.  This week, I watched as our backyard burst into color. We watched in awe as black-eyed Susans bloomed along with some perennial herbs.  Birds used the taller, hardier plants to purchase and fed beneath these natural camouflages.

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We used to mow these spaces flat until the thin stalks ended abruptly and evenly just inches above the earth.  Consequently, we rarely saw birds near the house other than Robins after a rainfall nor did we see butterflies or notice the diversity of plant species that called this land home before our arrival here.

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And now we will work with the land, rather than apart, building hedgerows to shelter and nourish the birds and other natural predators and the beds and guilds as the earthen cornerstone for our edible landscape.

Today we picked up manure from the T/N Farms and estimated the hay expenses for this month to be around $67.50, but following the building of the guilds our cost will be limited to what we choose to grow.  On a side note, Liz and a friend helped Erick load the trailer by hand in under 10 minutes!

I’ve put the word out for a tractor-trailer or dump truck to use in hauling the black dirt T/N has donated.  We need to move all of it before August.  If I must, I’ll take it a trailer-load at a time, but I’d rather be more eco-friendly.

I visited Rennie Orchards this week and learned of my mistake in choosing a Bing cherry to grow in Michigan.  Sandy Rennie abruptly explained, “After a rain, Bing goes BANG.”  They split easily, so Mr. Rennie offered some better sweet varieties.  I’m going to do some more research before posting anything further on the cherries.

For now, I’m looking out at the land and thinking about those worms and microbes changing the soil beneath the landscape: healing, rebuilding, renewing.

Trees, bees and birdies

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I’m investigating the usefulness of milkweed at the moment since we have an abundance of it on our property.  This time of the year, the plant (Common Milkweed) produces large purple to pink flowers.  It is highly toxic for most herbivores, so it makes a nice deer deterrent, but it attracts many beneficials including bees, humming birds and butterflies.

The monarch butterfly is dependent on the plant to aid in the production of its own toxic defenses which give it that lovely bright orange coloration.

More diversity in the edible forest garden means more niches for a varied number of insects and birds.  Since beneficials or non-harmful insects outnumber
“pests” nine to one, this diversity will help establish a virtual army of predators ready to pounce on any sudden infestations.  It’s a great way to protect our cherry, apple and nut trees naturally.

Just a reminder, we are raising funds for Healing Tree Farm.  If you are interested in learning more about the farm, click on the tabs located above or scroll down to “Raising Funds for Healing Tree” and see what costs go in to producing each guild.

Enjoy your weekend!

Bugs, Black Cherry, Mapping and Septic Systems

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Firstly, I’m in the midst of mapping out the edible forest garden that will fill the large, open spaces of our backyard. This morning, I called the Health Department for a map of our septic system and drainfield (as Brett might say, “trees and drainfields, bad”).

Mapping is helpful for several reasons. Obviously, it allows you to visualize the flow of the land and forest and makes it easier to connect the existing woodland with the proposed. Secondly, it is a good way to determine cost. Since guilds alone don’t qualify as a forest garden, we’ll also be planning beds for our shrub layers and insect-attracting flowering plants. This makes it necessary (for me) to compile a listing of affordable sources for trees, plants and supplies. I list by affordability, availability and then necessity.

We’ll be planting cover-crops and bulbs this year, leaving room for trees next spring, so it’s important to keep track of when these companies accept orders for various seasons. I find it easiest to make a list of the guilds and what is contained in each and I follow that up with where I can get the most bang for my buck (without sacrificing quality). And finally, I come up with an estimate and order schedule to reference easily.

In other news, I will soon be compiling a list of which flowering plants we’ll be using according to bloom-time and beneficial insects attracted to the plants. And Erick has requested we grow an additional variety of sweet cherry.

The Black Tartarian Sweet is an early bloomer which might present a problem with the possibility of frost during bloom-time. We have two other sweet varieties (Bing and Stella) to back up the Tartarian and it adds one more pollinator for all. We’ll add two additional guilds.

I’m going to elicit help from friends and family in the coming weeks for help in prepping the guilds and berry beds. Depending on the condition of the black dirt we’ll be receiving from T/N, I may begin planting the flowering plants immediately. We’ll be using approximately 400 bulbs, the majority are daffodils and tulips, but I’m including day lilies as well for their mid-summer bloom-time.

We’re expecting some rain in the next few days. I’ve let our lawn grow out, so I can now differentiate beneficials from those plants we might call “weeds.” Really, there’s only one weed I’m interested in removing, or lessening, and that’s the Canada Thistle. It grows in depleted, disturbed soil, so rebuilding our soil will naturally deter it’s growth, but after a rain, the roots may more easily be pulled up and in the open space remaining, we’ll fill with seeds for grasses or herbs.

Anyone eager to help me out with this? <crickets chirping>